What Mountain Bike should I start with?

What’s inside this week:
1. Cut through the bikeshop clutter - what’s the best starting MTB for you?
2. Gadget of the week, a staple in the newsletter.
3. Shorts.
4. Links I’d send you if we were friends.
5. Good hack, or is it whack? Tips and tricks from myself and readers.

What is the right mountain bike for you?

Have you recently wandered into a bike shop? If you have, then like me, you probably had no idea where to start. There are so many bikes in every price bracket and riding category. Buying your first MTB is tricky. What do you need, what should you consider and what should you pay?

Here are a few questions to ask yourself, to find the right bike:

1. What is my budget?

Mountain bikes are not cheap, and you’d be hard pressed to try justify why an MTB can be more expensive than a motorbike or a car, but that’s the reality. So just accept it and decide where to draw the line. (If you really want to be offended, look at new eBike pricing…)
These indicative numbers are for new bicycles (and I considered deals or specials at the time of publishing) and assuming that you are new or relatively new to the sport. Secondhand can be great, but they’re also full of pitfalls for new cyclists, so unless someone is helping you negate those, buying a new mountain bike is your best bet.

R0 - R9 999
New bikes in this category are not worth your money for actual trails.

R10 000 - R14 999
This price bracket will get you a reasonable ride-to-school MTB or entry-level mountain capable hardtail. These may have a mixture of dated brand and more modern no-name components, but will not feature the latest standards. You may find a gem here at discount times.

R15 000 - R19 999
Here you will get a good entry to mid level aluminium hardtail bike. You can expect modern geometry, brand name components, a 1×12 drivetrain and hydraulic disc brakes.

R20 000 - R29 999
Now you are in higher spec hardtail terrain. At the lower price end will be well specced alloy bikes and at the higher end lower-specification Carbon frame bikes.
In this price bracket, you can start looking at alloy full suspension bikes.

R30 000 - R39 999
If you are planning to spend this kind of money, an entry- to mid level alloy full suspension really is your only option. This is a lot of money for a hardtail, and really not worth it for a novice.

R40 000 - R49 999
Mid- to -top level alloy full suspensions, or entry level carbon full suspensions are the way to go in this price bracket.

R50 000 - R69 999
You should be able to pick any alloy full suspension bike off the floor that you like regardless of specification, and have a wide range of carbon full suspension bikes to choose from.

R70 000 - R89 999
Unless you are 100% committed to the sport and have done extensive research into brands, riding qualities and have money to spend, I would not recommend MTB’s above the R70 000 mark for a novice. Peer pressure is a real thing, especially in some riding communities so, if that is the case, drop me a message and I will gladly try to recommend something or a shop that will be good to help you.
*eBikes are expensive, so if you want to see this applied to EMTB’s, let me know.

2. Where will you ride?

Rule of thumb is that you will ride close to your home. The novelty of traveling to trails or bikeparks wears thin quickly. Stick within a 10 or 15min travel radius to your trails, and you’ll be more inclined to use your bike.

With that in mind; what trail networks are close to you? Buy a bike that suits the type of riding that you do on these trails. You do not want to be over- or under-biked. Over-biked is when you have a beast of a bike for mellow trails - a bazooka to a snowball fight if you will. If your group rides Somerbosch exclusively, you will have a bad time on a 150mm trail bike, when they’re all on 120mm XC hardtails.
Under-biked means the opposite, taking on gnarly trails on a bike that is not up to the terrain like entering a rental polo in an off-road 4×4 competition, somewhat doable but not recommended.

Being under-biked or over-biked can take away a lot of enjoyment of what a specific trail network has to offer.

3. Who am I going to be riding with?

Just like where you ride, who you ride with can greatly influence the bike you'll love and—let's be honest—the bike you'll be proud to show off. Take a peek at what your friends or potential riding buddies are rocking and ask them why. This info is golden when you're on the hunt for your next bike.

If you're riding with a squad of dentists, you might find yourself eyeing a Yeti. In some groups, only the big S (we're looking at you, Specialized) will cut it. No, you don't need the same brand bike as everyone else, but local shops might offer sweet deals and stellar support on specific brands they carry.

Pro tip: Riding with skilled riders and mimicking their line choices and body positioning is a surefire way to level up your game.

3. What is my skill level realistically?

Your first bike will take a beating—think of it as your sacrificial lamb in the learning curve of mountain biking. So, keep your splurge money for your second or third bike down the line. By then, you'll be a seasoned rider, know exactly what you need, and appreciate buying the bike you really want.

No, you don’t need the triple lockout Scott bike with the carbon wheels to become a better rider. You don’t need Ohlins suspension to enjoy trails, and you certainly don’t need to mortgage your house to buy skills. We love pretty bikes, but don’t pay (a lot) extra for a colour. Good geometry doesn’t cost a fortune. Decent ride quality and suspension kinematics come at a reasonable price (but yes, it does cost some money).

Good geometry on a hardtail or a combination of good geometry and kinematics on a full suspension will do wonders for your riding development. Pair that with well-thought-out components and a dropper post, and you’ll be ready to have fun from the get-go and progress your riding.

3. Do I want new or secondhand?

The real question is: Do you have a bike whisperer in your life who can help you vet secondhand bikes and give solid advice? If not, then stick with new.
 
Secondhand will always look like a good deal, but without the discerning eye of an expert, I’d strongly advise against buying a used MTB. You don't want to end up with a bike that’s seen more shots than a Stellenbosch bouncer.

3. Material Considerations

Carbon may sound like the best thing absolutely ever when it comes to bicycle frame materials, but alloy may just be a better choice for you.

Cheap carbon bikes often come with lower-end components that affect the ride quality and make the bike heavier. For the same price, you can normally get an alloy framed bike with all round better quality components, that make for a better riding- lighter bike.
 
If you plan to upgrade the bike as you go along, go for the carbon framed bike (keep in mind that upgrade components quickly add up to more than what a more expensive bike in the same model would have cost in the first place.) If you plan to splash on your second or third bike, and to get the best possible bike for your money, then go with an alloy frame and nicer parts.

*In a future newsletter we will do a deep-dive into frame materials and their ride properties. (This will also focus on alternative materials - steel & Titanium) So keep your eyes peeled for that.

4. Hardtail vs Full suspension

Ah, the eternal debate: hardtail vs. full suspension for first-time buyers. Let’s keep it real- your first bike is about learning and fun, not impressing your local coffee ride crowd.

Hardtails are the ultimate “bang-for-your-buck” choice. With a suspension fork up front and a rigid rear, they’re lighter, cheaper, and require way less maintenance than their full-squish cousins. Plus, they teach you trail skills the hard (but effective) way—line choice and body positioning become second nature when there’s no rear shock to save you from a bad decision.

Full suspension bikes, on the other hand, offer unmatched comfort and confidence, especially on rough trails. They smooth out rocks, roots, and drops like butter on toast, but that buttery ride comes at a price—literally. They’re heavier, more expensive, and their extra moving parts demand attention. Sure, they’re incredible, but do you really need one to discover how much you love mountain biking? Probably not.

5. Flat pedals or Clipless pedals?!

When you're starting out, choosing between flat pedals and clipless can feel like a big decision. Here’s the lowdown:

Flat pedals are the go-to for most beginners. Why? They’re simple, affordable, and forgiving. If you need to bail (and you will), your feet are free to jab on the ground in a heartbeat. Flat pedals also help you develop proper technique—like weighting your feet and maintaining good body position—without relying on being "locked in." Pair them with grippy shoes, and you’ll feel connected enough for trail adventures while avoiding the stress of learning how to unclip mid-crash.

Clipless pedals, despite the confusing name, attach your feet to the bike via cleats on your shoes. They’re fantastic for efficiency and control once you’ve mastered the basics. On climbs, they help you maximize power by pulling up as well as pushing down. But for beginners, they can feel intimidating—you might spend more time worrying about unclipping than focusing on the trail.

Verdict? Stick with flats to build confidence and skill first. Once you’re comfortable with handling your bike and tackling technical trails, clipless pedals can be a game-changing upgrade to help you take on steeper climbs and faster descents with precision.

I hope this helps to narrow down finding the right bike. If you have any questions, please let me know and I will gladly help or make a recommendation where I can.

Gadget of the week: Shock pump

Running the correct suspension SAG for your type of bike and riding style can optimize suspension, benefit traction, lessen pedalling induced bob, prevent frame failure and hard bottom-outs, improve comfort and offer major benefits in handling. I would recommend experimenting with pressure (start at 25% SAG and then work up and down) until you find your happy place. Then write it down.
Check pressure often with a shock pump and adjust to be optimal if needed.

Q. What front light do I need to do a night ride?
A. There are two types of lights; first type is to see, and the second type to be visible.
Lower lumen lights (20 to 300lumens) are for cities, commuting and to ensure you stay visible to cars. 300 - 700lumens would be decent for pathways, road riding and supplementary lights. For singletrack and trails, I would recommend 700 - 2000 Lumens. This gives you adequate lighting to see trails clearly when going at speed, and to keep you from getting into trouble.

About the author:
Hello, I’m Francoin, an Industrial Designer in the cycling industry based in Somerset West, South Africa.

Tools, lights, accessories and bicycle design is my daily graft.

This newsletter is to share some of the experience & industry insight that I pick up along the way, with fellow cyclists. If you are new to the sport, or been riding for many years, I plan to give you something of interest in every edition.

Thanks for subscribing and Happy trails!

FV

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