Mountain Bike Basics

What’s inside this week:
1. Feeling left behind in coffee shop MTB conversations? Get updated with the basics.
2. Gadget of the week, a staple in the newsletter.
3. Shorts.
4. MTB video of the week. Solo Flow.
5. Good hack, or is it whack? Tips and tricks from myself and readers.
6. Guided rides - Focus on West Peak Tours.

Mountain Bike basics.

Mountain biking is constantly evolving. If you don’t keep your finger on the pulse of what’s happening, you may just feel like a dinosaur at your coffee stops when your friends are talking bikes and riding (kind of like how I feel having conversations with teens).

So, here are 10 basics to keep you from nodding along clueless:

1. Dropper post
   A dropper post is a height-adjustable seat post that allows riders to lower or raise their saddle on the fly using a handlebar-mounted remote. Riders benefit from it, by easily transitioning between optimal pedalling efficiency with a raised saddle for climbs, and better control and manoeuvrability with a lowered saddle for descents and technical sections. This has been the single biggest upgrade I’ve done to advance my riding in the last 10 years and has kept me from going over the bars more times than I care to remember.

   

   Dropper. Image: bicycling.co.za

2. 1x (One by) drivetrain
   A one-by drivetrain features a single front narrow/wide chainring combined with a wide-range cassette at the rear, simplifying the gear setup by eliminating the front derailleur. Riders benefit from it through reduced weight, easier maintenance, and improved reliability, while still offering a sufficient gear range for both climbs and descents. One-by drivetrains typically comes in 10, 11 or 12 speed options.

   

   1x drivetrain. Image: Cube.eu

3. Travel
   No, not where your bike can take you. This in MTB terms refer to suspension or dropper seat post movement. This is the maximum distance a component can travel. 120mm fork travel means that the wheel can travel up to a total of 120mm up and down.
   

4. MTB categories.
   The previous newsletter gives a good overview of the categories of mountain bikes. Have a read on our site - newsletter archive: https://www.trail-insider.com/p/newsletter-1-mtb-categories.
   

5. Geometry
   Geometry refers to the collection of key measurements (lengths and angles) that define a particular bike configuration. These parameters have major influence on how a bicycle handles.
   
   Understanding geometry is important when buying a bike, but you don’t need to be an expert, your LBS (local bike shop) should be very helpful in explaining a particular bike to you. If not, give me a shout and I will help.
   
   In the next newsletter we’ll go down the geometry rabbit hole. So if you want to know a bit more, keep your eyes peeled.

   

   Geometry chart. Image: leripp.com

6. Clipless pedals
   Yes, the name is confusing—clipless pedals actually have clips that attach to cleats on your riding shoes, securely fastening you to the bike. They improve efficiency by enhancing power transfer. On the flip side, flat pedals are used with flat-soled shoes. Riding with clipless pedals takes some practice, and almost everyone who uses them has a funny story about the time they couldn't unclip fast enough and took a tumble. I’ve had my own moment, sliding sideways in a corner because I couldn’t get my foot out in time. But once you get the hang of them, they’re fantastic, especially in rock gardens where they keep your feet on the pedals.

   

    

7. Lube.
   No, not any funny business. Lube can be chain lubricant, or suspension specific. Get some, follow the instructions and use it often.
   
   Chainlube - Wet and dry lubes are both used to reduce friction and protect your bike's chain, but they’re designed for different conditions:

   • Wet Lube: This is thicker and normally oil based, designed to hold up in wet or muddy conditions. It stays on the chain even in the rain, providing consistent lubrication and protecting against rust. However, because it's sticky, it attracts more dirt and grime, so your chain may require more frequent cleaning.

   • Dry Lube: This is lighter and normally wax based, ideal for dry, dusty conditions. It applies wet but dries to a waxy finish, which helps it stay clean by not attracting as much dirt. However, it tends to wear off more quickly in wet conditions, so you’ll need to reapply it more often if you ride in varied weather.

   I prefer wax lube for both wet and dry, and find that if I apply it correctly and let it dry before use, it has solid longevity and does a good job in protecting my drivetrains.
   
   Suspension lube is essential for keeping your MTB suspension system running smoothly. It reduces friction in the suspension seals, stanchions, and pivots, ensuring that your fork and rear shock move freely and respond effectively to terrain changes. Regular application of suspension lube on clean stanchions and seals help prevent dirt and grime from building up, extending the life of your suspension components and maintaining optimal performance. It’s a simple yet crucial step in your bike maintenance routine that keeps your ride plush and responsive.
   

8. Rebound & Compression:
   Rebound: This refers to the speed at which the suspension returns to its original position after being compressed. Proper rebound adjustment ensures that the bike maintains traction and control over varied terrain without bouncing excessively. Also a term frequently used after a break up…

   Compression: This determines how the suspension responds to impacts and loads. It can be adjusted to control the firmness of the suspension, affecting how much it compresses under a given force. Proper compression adjustment helps in absorbing shocks and maintaining stability.
   

   

   Setting up rebound and compression can make a bike feel amazing… or terrible.

9. Hardtail vs Full suspension:
   Hardtails have a suspension fork at the front but no rear suspension. They are generally lighter, less expensive, and simpler to maintain than full suspension bikes. Hardtails are ideal for cross-country riding, climbing, and smoother trails where the rear suspension is less critical. Hardtails are generally considered to teach you better riding techniques, since you don’t have the rear soaking up roots, rocks and bumps.

   

   Hardtails can be fun. But they can be hard on your body on technical terrain.

   Full Suspensions feature both front and rear suspension, providing better traction, comfort, and control on rough and technical terrain. They absorb impacts more effectively, reducing rider fatigue and improving handling on descents and technical trails. However, they are typically heavier, more expensive, and require more maintenance compared to hardtails.
   

10. Brakes 2 pot vs 4 pot disc brakes:
    the difference between 2-pot and 4-pot brakes refers to the number of pistons in the brake calipers, affecting braking power and performance:

    • 2-Pot Brakes: These have two pistons per caliper, one on each side. They provide sufficient braking power for most trail riding and cross-country biking. They are lighter, less expensive, and simpler to maintain, making them a good choice for less aggressive riding.

    • 4-Pot Brakes: These have four pistons per caliper, two on each side. They offer increased braking power and better heat dissipation, making them ideal for more aggressive riding styles, such as downhill and enduro, where stronger, more consistent braking is required. They are generally heavier and more expensive but provide superior stopping power and control.
      *With brakes - horses for courses, 2-pot brakes with bigger rotors in most cases will offer the performance gains that riders are looking for, for a lot cheaper than upgrading to 4 piston brakes.

      

      Brakes just slow you down man.

That should get you up to speed for coffee shop banter. If you have any specific questions or comments, please let me know!

If you are reading this, thanks a lot! This is issue number 2, and we really need your help to reach more riders. Please share this with your MTB buddies and on the MTB Whatsapp groups that you’re part of. For every three referrals, we will email you a helpful Bike Maintenance Log to keep your bike running better for longer!

Gadget of the week: Digital Tyre pressure gauges.

Running the correct tyre pressures for your condition and riding style can benefit traction, lessen rolling resistance, prevent punctures, improve comfort and offer major benefits in cornering grip. I would recommend experimenting with pressure until you find your happy place. Then write it down. I write on a piece of masking tape, and stick it somewhere hidden on my frame, currently under my handlebars. Then check pressure often with a pressure gauge. Simple.

Q. How to diagnose and remedy dropper lag.
A. There are a few things to do when you are starting to experience slow returns on your cable actuated dropper post.
1. Take it out your frame and clean it properly, check for stanchion wear.
2. Replace the cable inner (and check the outer for kinks) - this is the biggest culprit with dropper issues. If the housing is kinked - see why/where and try to avoid it when installing new housing.
3. If your dropper has an adjustable air cartridge, make sure it is inflated to recommended pressure.
4. Use proper Fiber grip (carbon paste) or quality bicycle grease (I normally use Finish Line Teflon grease or Parktool PolyLube) when reinstalling it.
5. Make sure your seat clamp is torqued to specification. Over tightening this can cause binding on your dropper. Also the top collar on your dropper post (the metal ring around the seals where the stanchion comes out), must not be overly tight.
6. If you are still experiencing issues, then it is time to book it in for an internals service or repair. Most of the times however, steps 1 through 5 will have it working great again.

About the author:
Hello, I’m Francoin, an Industrial Designer in the cycling industry based in Somerset West, South Africa.

Tools, lights, accessories and bicycle design is my daily graft.

This newsletter is to share some of the experience & industry insight that I pick up along the way, with fellow cyclists. If you are new to the sport, or been riding for many years, I plan to give you something of interest in every edition.

Thanks for subscribing and Happy trails!

FV

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